Getting ready to head to the track? Whether it be your first time or your twentieth, it is still something I find to be rather stressful. I have to say that it's gotten far easier with experience but I'm also surprised that it's not yet "easy". So let's try to gather some good info here to help make things better. We'll break things down into the basics, car prep, and driver prep.
My first track experience at Lime Rock Park in 2008
The Basics
First off, it's exciting to have a track day or autocross lined up and looming on the horizon. Even without the intense competition aspect of auto racing, it's still you and a ~3000+lb machine trying to max out both of your capabilities. Or maybe discover what they are for the first time. For most it's a new challenge and something we didn't get to do in our youth. And more healthy a challenge than testing the tolerance of our livers. The excitement is exhilarating, stressful, and can be a little scary. Driving fast is all of those things and doing it in a public setting with measurement of some sort (even if you are just trying to keep pace or not crash) is an amplification. As good as most of these feelings can be, its also good to recognize that it will make you more susceptible to forgetting the little important things that can make or break your day. Everyone I've met at track events will generously help you if you have issues, but doesn't it feel good to be fully prepared and ready to help others as well? So let's get the basics down.
Get your paperwork in order. Have your registration, payment and tech forms ready and put them in the glove box as soon as they are filled out which may be weeks in advance of the event. If they are in your car, you can't forget them and you won't have to even think about them again. Tech inspection was a big hurdle for me initially. The process of taking time to get my car to a shop, have it looked over, and potentially have to fix something in time for the event - not fun. But I tried to view it as a way to learn a little more about my car, if only for my own safety.
The Car
If you don't know when your last brake fluid flush was off the top of your head and how much life is left in your brake pads with a quick glance, you'll want to get to know your car a bit more before you do any serious track time. If this sounds complex to you, find someone to walk you through it - even a shop with technicians who are willing to take a few minutes to show you. Once you know what to look for and keep in mind, its really not hard at all to know the basics about your car.
You will be advised by most inspection shops to have at least half of the brake pad friction material left on your pad for it to be ready for a track day. Its not a bad rule of thumb. For autocross, where speeds are generally lower, you have a bit more wiggle room. But I've found that full, new pads bite quickly and give me more confidence. Old pads seem to require a bit more effort for a little less stopping result. But also beware that brand new pads need to be "bedded in" properly before they will work optimally. To bed-in new pads, get up to about 60mph and then brake to 10mph about 10 times in a row. For high performance pads, you then need to brake from 80mph to 60mph about 6 times in a row. You're effectively both heat-cycling the pad and also transferring pad material onto your rotors. After that's done, they will be up to full strength.
Worn and new BMW pads side by each (its a RI thing)
Porsche's Brembo four-piston fixed caliper with easy, slide-out pads
BMW's basic sliding caliper - there is one piston on the inside - makes for very uneven pad wear so watch out!
You may also want to keep in mind when your last oil change was. When you run your car at high RPM's (near redline) for a long time, your engine is going to wear a bit faster than in normal street driving. Getting good, fresh oil in there frequently is important to clear away any shaved metal. Burnt fuel gases and other corrosives get absorbed by the oil too. Some say a change before every event. I think for many cars, that's overkill but again ask your shop what they recommend. Street cars are built to endure and take some abuse as opposed to race car motors that want max power (with reliability too - but for a specific race period at minimum). Race car engines get rebuilt frequently. I'd like to really never rebuild my street car engine if I can help it. The best way to know if you are changing your oil enough is to get an oil analysis for about $35.
The brake fluid you use is probably decent but make sure its fresh within the last year. Brake fluid is a critical part of your hydraulically operated braking system - you push the brake pedal and the force you apply is magnified by pushing liquid at high pressure through your brake lines to squeeze your brake calipers or drum shoes against a surface connected to your wheels to slow them, and you, down. But over time, brake fluid attracts water. And water lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid, creates gas in the system, gas compresses, and won't amplify your force correctly. Which might mean no brakes and no fun. So fresh brake fluid is good. Here is a link where you can go deeper on brake fluid if you'd like. And one more.
Brake lines are always good to check, but hard to do visually. Usually if you see an issue, they are already toast. Here's what you need to know (according to a reputable brake line source):
Visually check for following brake hose conditions
- Cracks in the outer skin of the brake hose - you may need to bend the hose in order to see this
- Blisters or bubbles in the brake hose - have someone pump the brake pedal so you can see this better
- Chafe marks - from brake hose rubbing against some other component
- Wet stains where brake hose is starting to leak
- Obvious bulging or expansion of the hose
- Loose brake hose mounts
- Twist in the brake line
- HINT: All D.O.T. approved brake hoses have two continuous lay-lines (lines of print) on either side of the brake hose, which makes it easy to tell if the hose is twisted.
Other symptoms which may indicate brake hose wear
- Low or spongy brake pedal - may indicate old, soft and weak brake hoses which expand under pressure
- Pulling to one side during braking - may be caused by one of the front brake hoses being blocked or restricted
- Brake drag - may be caused by one or more restricted brake hoses
- Intermitent brake problem - may be caused by a hose with an internal fracture creating a one-way check valve effect
If you are going to do more than a couple track days in a year, putting in new brake lines (really just the little bit between the hard lines to each wheel and the brake assembly which moves up and down with your suspension over bumps) makes some sense. It's your car and your person, so take the precautions you feel make sense to you. Brake lines have a generally accepted lifespan of about 6 years but I'm actually surprised to have recently learned this as almost no dealership seems to ever state that you need to change lines that frequently.
Tires are also very important. Most modern tires are very good. They are very good at moving water through their tread so you don't hydroplane when going fast on the highway. They are good at wearing slowly so you don't have to replace them too frequently. They can be good at keeping road noise to a minimum so you are comfy when talking to your mom on your mobile (hands free of course). They can even be good at reducing how much gas you use. Most tires will even do all this and get you around the track too! If you're out for a fun day, about the only thing you need to check will be your tire pressures, tread depth (wear), and whether your tires have any damage that might become a problem.
Tire pressure can be a complex topic but start with the psi listed on your driver door card. The same folks who designed your car from scratch because they know a thing or two thought this was a good idea.
If your track event day will be dry, tread depth isn't that critical but you should have any cords showing and probably should have at least enough tread that they are still street legal - above the built-in wear bars. If its going to be wet, you will want lots of tread depth to prevent hydroplaning. This is even more critical at higher speeds so don't underestimate this tidbit. Racecars often crash on wet tracks when on slicks for a reason. Its like driving on ice.
As for damage, try to take a good look at the tires for things like bubbles on the sidewalls (commonly cause by potholes) and anything stuck in the tires like nails. You'd be amazed at how easy it is to have these things happen. I do this by taking my wheels completely off the car and inspecting them closely. It's a little time consuming, but the tire is the only thing connecting you to the road and track. They are critical. Make sure they are in good shape or replace them.
Taking the tires off is the best way to get a good look at them. My little inspector makes sure they are in good shape.
Tire pressures go up as your tires get hot. Keep an eye on them while you run on track so that you aren't suddenly over-inflated. For autocross, suggested max-grip psi is about 36. I run a little higher usually. And I run closer to 40psi front/44psi rear on a racetrack.
Check the torque of your lug nuts! Something so simple as this is easy to overlook. My car wants 96 foot pounds. No more, no less. Yes, you need a torque wrench. Watch out for shops who use air tools - they often over-torque your wheel nuts. Then its hard to get them off and all that extra torque is not necessary. Also check torque when your day is done and you're headed home. I got home after an autocross once and found my wheel nuts were only finger tight. Scary!
Finally check your fluids the day before or right before the event (bring extra coolant, brake fluid (might be overkill), and a quart of oil). Check your coolant level (easy), check your oil (usually easy), and take a peek at your brake fluid (can be harder but have a shop show you how if you don't already know). I like to check these things before and after a track day so I know what happened during the event and look for any signs of trouble. Suddenly lower brake fluid probably means you have a line that is leaking and may go soon. Low coolant may mean that you ran too hot and boiled some off or that you have a leak somewhere. Low oil may mean that your engine is worn or that some gaskets may need replacement soon. Any fluids that are dramatically lower mean there is a bigger issue. Always good to have a baseline and then assess the change.
Pack some basic tools. I bring a torque wrench, sockets to fit my wheel nuts and most basic fasteners, mallet/hammer, work gloves, tire pressure gauge and 12v inflation pump, handful of zip ties, and some basic hand tools. I don't change wheels at the track so I don't pack a jack, but you may need one for your Hoosiers, if you get fancy. I'm thinking I'll need some spare hoses and clamps maybe some day but my car is pretty solid for now.
One last critical fluid is gas/fuel! Fill up on the way to the track in the morning. Bring extra fuel if you need to in a jerry can maybe (don't forget your funnel, though). Or check if the track sells fuel (but know the price is about 4x what it will be at the station down the street so bring $$). Never count on the track selling fuel, though, as the pumps may be out of order or closed that day!
The Driver (You)
With all this car and paperwork, its easy to forget that your body is a machine too. It's going to need to operate well. With many track events on weekends, its tempting to go about your normal life and hang with friends the night before. Maybe eat some garbage food and throw a few back. Get into bed late... But you will pay for it. At a real amateur level, it won't be a huge deal but track days aren't free and I certainly don't want to be in a haze for mine. I'm there to enjoy it and see how I can improve. Part of that is getting me ready.
I'd say to at least take it easy on booze the night before. And try to get to bed at a decent hour. You'll probably be up early but the adrenaline is going to be kicking. And I generally sleep badly the night before my events. If I get to be early, I generally wake up early and I can destress in the shower or while eating breakfast before I head out. Breakfast is really critical. Don't blow this off. At the track, you won't be quite sure when lunch will be. You may even need to bring your lunch.
Being up early will help get these last minute things done without extra stress. Having calories in your system will make it easier to concentrate and you won't run out of energy as quickly. I try to go easy on coffee since there is going to be plenty of excitement at the track. I like about half my usual daily intake. Bathrooms can be a little harder to utilize at the track so make sure you are in good shape there too.
Being comfortable in your car is an important thing to consider. You are going to be doing important things like looking out the windshield, steering, braking, accelerating, and maybe using the clutch and changing gears. Clean your windshield off. Make sure its not cracked or pitted. Adjust your seating position so you can reach the pedals with a slight bend at the knees. Many racers prefer to pull the steering wheel closer to their body to minimize the effort to turn the wheel (and reduce force on the arms but that's crazy advanced stuff). Make sure your seat is up high enough to see ahead of your car. Make sure you can reach the gearshift lever easily if you're driving a manual.
And don't forget temperature. If its going to be a hot day, is it better to stay cool and comfortable inside? I think so. You're not winning any trophies typically and you're there for fun. Why suffer and turn off the AC? Your brain will work better at the optimal temperature just like your car will. If you're wearing a helmet and race suit, you're going to be pretty hot already. Plan to keep you cool. And keep your cool too.
Plan to stay hydrated. At one event, I drank a little water but not nearly enough and I felt like garbage for two days afterward. Hanging out in the sun while being scared, stressed, excited, and exhilarated (often at once) takes an amazing toll on your body. I usually stop on the way to the track for gas (for the car), a protein bar to have on hand, and two good sized bottles of water or electrolyte sports drink. And I make sure I consume these things during the day. It really matters. Have I stressed that enough?
Have your clothes laid out or thought out before hand. You'll probably need long pants, sneakers or driving shoes, maybe long sleeved shirt (if no fire suit required), helmet (check your event for minimum standards as they need to be inspected and many helmets won't pass!), and maybe gloves. If you're wearing a fire suit, you're not going to want tons of clothing under it but you also may want to change at the end of the day. I've found running clothes stay cool but also watch out for synthetic fabrics. Synthetics will melt to your skin in a fire which is a horrible thing. Cotton is far better for safety. Cotton or wool socks (yes, you can find light wool for summer comfortable) will help your feet stay comfortable and safe.
Applying sunscreen before you get to the track and bringing some extra is a good plan. Racer's tan lines are sub-optimal!
Some more perfomance-oriented tips and some good basic info
What I Didn't Talk About
Notice I didn't talk about making my car more powerful, fitting race tires, upgrading to a big brake kit, and so on. I'll say this really loudly to make sure its clear: improving the driver matters one thousand times more than improving the car.
Nothing drove this point home more clearly than seeing two drivers share the same car at two recent endurance races. One was an enthusiastic amateur (who owned the car) and one was a pro race driver who had never been in the car. In one race the car was a pretty basic E30 BMW and in the second race it was an MGB GT! The pro driver's name is Randy Pobst and he's been doing a few stints in low-priced endurance cars lately. He jumped into the MGB GT and instantly ran 13 seconds faster a lap than the car's other drivers (and owner) over a 1 min 24 sec average lap! That's mind-blowingly different performances back to back. In the same car! Or watch Patrick Long chase down cars with far more power and way more capability in a 1967 911 S!
Before you spend a dime upgrading anything, find a really good driver and have them drive your car. Then try to go out there and develop your ability to that same level. When you can match their times in the same car on the same track, then you can start to think about how an upgrade might make the car faster. First live up to the car you have in hand. You'd be amazed at how much more performance you may already have. Inside you.
The Checklist
- Paperwork & money (put them in your glove box right now!)
- Helmet (and other safety clothing)
- Change of clothes (you're going to sweat and smell bad)
- Water or sports drinks (plan on 3-4 12oz bottles per person for a day min)
- Food (protein bars, fruit - good stuff)
- Sunscreen (apply some before you leave and apply more after lunch)
- Tools (if you want them, hopefully you won't need any)
- Spare car fluids (antifreeze and oil primarily)
- Your phone (call your family at some point during the day!)
- Camera/GoPro & SD cards & spare batteries (if you can use these or want proof)
- Willingness to get better and have fun! Maybe even figure out how to win!
- Any other conveniences you may want - a folding chair, a book if you have to wait between run groups, whatever